Wishbone rear axle screw 996 Turbo

  • Hello everyone,

    I would like to ask you if you have any tips and tricks for me regarding loosening the screw on the lower wishbone (see picture). The problem will be getting to the Torx with the right tool to hold it - at least while the drive shaft is still fitted. Loosening without counter-holding would not work, would it?k:mechanic:

    Are there any other remarks (such as tightening the screw when the wheel is under load, etc...) that would be helpful when changing the wishbone if the vehicle is placed on stands?k:coffee:k:computing:

    After changing the wishbone, the track must then be adjusted as the extender bolt has been opened, right?

    Thank you in advance:thumb:

    Best regards

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  • Hi there,

    I didn't need the Torx. When loosening, the head is so tight that you don't have to hold it. However, with a small ratchet and the (IMHO 40mm Torx) it is possible even with the shaft installed from the front of the vehicle. But yes, it's annoyingly tight, and you don't want to stress the boot unnecessarily.

    From my point of view, the problem was rather having the right ejector lying around. I had to order it separately, my collection wasn't big enough. After pressing it out, I held the ball head / rod under the ball joint with the grip pliers and removed the nut at the top. Of course, this only works if you want to replace the control arm, as the grip pliers will leave marks. At the rear, however, the stabilizer bar is also a pain when removing it, and everything only fits with millimetre precision. But you'll see.

    Installation was similar. Loosely screwed in and then pressed the control arm cleanly into the support leg with a jack. I was able to tighten everything correctly even with torque. But be careful, support everything properly, you are taking the weight off the actual trestle on which the car is standing!

    Sounds a bit like a bush mechanic, but everything is perfectly installed in my case. Yes, you have to measure the car. But if you remember the bolt position on the engine side (make a mark) you can get it to fit perfectly. In my case, nothing had to be readjusted during the measurement. :thumbsup:

    You should only tighten the screw on the engine side, where you adjust the camber, when the car is standing on its own wheels again, otherwise the rubber bearing will be permanently twisted.

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  • I first sprayed the nut with Würth rust remover... several times. The nut then came off easily. When pressing out the bolt, I had the problem that none of my pushers fitted. My favorite workshop then ordered the large ejector from Hazet. It worked PERFECTLY.

    To insert it, I then used a TORX bit and a mail wrench to tighten it. Once the cone is in place, you can tighten everything.

    You can mark the position of the camber adjustment bolt or note the camber with a protractor and turn it back to the same value. A full wheel alignment is of course always the better alternative. However, you should loosen all bolts beforehand...including those on the front axle. If something can't be loosened, the only solution is to replace them. That's why I replaced all the struts and control arms last winter.

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  • Many thanks for your feedback.

    The special press-out tool is a very good tip.:thumb::wink:

    Yesterday I applied a little grease to the wishbone bushes as the car creaked and squeaked a lot when the suspension was compressed.:roargh:

    I've already bought a new wishbone, but haven't installed it yet as the squeaking and creaking can no longer be heard with the grease. However, I have already treated the screw with rust remover.

    Best regards and have a nice Sunday:wink:

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