Range in winter with the Taycan?

  • The Ioniq 5 has an adapter for Vehicle to Load, which I think allows up to 3.6 kW. So you could connect the charging brick. It takes time, but it's better than nothing.

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  • With so much subjunctive, I admire your pioneering spirit - honestly meant - to drive towards 0%. Respect!

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  • Basically, as a brave DIYer, you can already do this with almost any electric car: simply tap into the power supply for the 12 V battery and send the current to a converter and connect a charging brick there. There are videos on YouTube where someone even taps 1.5 kW from the e-up.

    This has been around for many years:

    https://www.der-postillon.com/…lektroauto-trick.html?m=1

    However, I haven't tried it myself yet because the wind noise is too loud for me when the window is open.

    MUV17 :drive:

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    Mitglied des T UV · Ein Auto ist ein Gebrauchsgegenstand. Ich benutze es, um von A nach A zu fahren.

  • Basically, as a brave DIYer, you can already do this with almost any electric car: simply tap into the power supply for the 12 V battery and send the current to a converter and connect a charging brick there. There are videos on YouTube where someone even taps 1.5 kW from the e-up.

    This has been around for many years:

    https://www.der-postillon.com/…lektroauto-trick.html?m=1

    However, I haven't tried it myself yet because the wind noise is too loud for me when the window is open.

    MUV17 :drive:

    Maybe someone has a short wire to Ali Baba :grin_weg:

    He could commission a DC/DC wireless converter.

    But please remember not the cash register model 14V/400V.

    The optimum would be 14V/830V, so that the full power can be called up permanently :cool2:

    I stand for the advance payments of the development costs,

    naturally with my secure account in the Fiji Islands k:beach:

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    :headbange Taycan Turbo Mamba seit 7.2022, SLS AMG seit 1.2012, Mercedes S420 EZ 1994 :thumbsup: :freu: :freu: :thumbsup:

    Edited once, last by SLS AMG (April 20, 2024 at 3:08 AM).

  • I had already mentioned it in another thread and got it confirmed again today: My Taycan is now conditioning the battery in every driving mode and without navigation! This costs a good 30-40km range and is in contrast to the big efficiency update about a year and a half ago.

    Initial situation today: battery temperature 12°C, destination 130 kilometers away, normal driving mode, no navigation as the route is known. Speed between 80 (roadworks) and 150 km/h. Battery temperature after a good hour's drive was 30°C. The battery was brought to this temperature completely unnecessarily, thus considerably reducing the range. Back the same game, battery temperature 22°C and then 35°C at home.

    What's going on? Can you also determine this? This was definitely not the case last year, when the battery remained at the initial temperature with a deviation of 2-3°. And as I said, it doesn't matter whether it's in Range or Normal mode! This has always been the case in Sport and Sport+ to ensure performance through higher battery temperature, but not in Range and Normal mode!

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    Viele Grüße aus dem Nordwesten,
    Torsten
    -----------------------------------------

    “The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page”
    (Saint Augustine)

  • Can you also determine that?

    No. But I can show you some data. I've just driven 53.7 km and recorded the car's data with the Pro version. The consumption of 16.5 kWh/100 km with a cold car and 8° gives you the idea that there was no PTC heating. Contrary to my habit, I drove in Range Mode, because in Eco Pro you hardly heat the cabin, so it's easier to analyze that all the heat would immediately heat the battery. For those who don't know, my car has the heat pump, the latest heating and all the latest updates.

    This is the data from the journey:

    This is where the trip data from CarScanner starts from. The x-axis is the time axis on the same scale everywhere

    This is everything from the electric auxiliary heater, heater itself, coolant and pumps, only brief activity at the beginning:

    These are the details about the battery, at the end the temperature over time. It started to rise at around 19:40, by two degrees by the end of the journey.

    The battery began to absorb heat around 19:40 and at the same time the coolant in the inverter and motor lost temperature:

    Conclusion: This makes it clear that it does not heat and warms without ambition via the heat pump function when its coolant is significantly warmer than the 30°C of the heating circuits in the first picture. This is exemplary energy-saving behavior, as it should be. Note the relatively high average speed, the low temperatures and you should know that my car runs on 21-inch Mission E rims.

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  • So lunatic is probably experiencing some kind of malfunction.

    MUV17:drive:

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    Mitglied des T UV · Ein Auto ist ein Gebrauchsgegenstand. Ich benutze es, um von A nach A zu fahren.

  • That seems to be the case, but to be on the safe side, you lunatic might want to try a test drive yourself. If I know correctly, you also have CarScanner.

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