Cost of engine overhaul (cylinder wall)

Hello,

does anyone here have experience with the cost of an engine overhaul, more specifically damage to the cylinder bore?

We have unfortunately experienced engine damage a few days ago. The cause is not quite clear yet, I may do another post on this. But happened when starting the engine (car did not start currently and we were looking for the cause, seems to be a problem with the ignition).

Here are some pictures of the damage (cylinder 3):

Now the consideration is what we do and most importantly what it will cost. Installation and removal we would do ourselves.

Can anyone give an approximation of what removing the raceway and replacing the Alusil raceway should cost? In addition what we should expect maybe for installation of crankshaft bearings and crankshaft or even a complete rebuild with head?

Thanks in advance!

Quote from northwest

I guess you can't grind that anymore. So bushings would have to be set.

Unfortunately, the workshop costs have increased a lot lately. There is more to it, so ZK check and almost always also overhaul, KW check and usually also overhaul. And new pistons with connecting rods. In addition, the question arises where the damage comes from - the engine looks very clean, possibly mixture too lean or knocking combustion.

There is in the range of 5 - 15 k everything in it. And the turbo is also expensive in parts.

Since nothing works now anyway, I would remove the engine and disassemble it, since you can do that yourself. Then continue to see where money can be saved.

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Thanks for your answer. I also feared that this is simply already too deep the damage and you can not grind it out.

Perhaps briefly explain the history:

Quite a few things have been done to the car lately, all vacuum and coolant hoses replaced, camshaft housing all seals new, head went to planing and got new valve stem seals and valve guides (reason was that we assumed the car was burning oil. The CCs were oily), starter new, distributor cap and distributor finger new, ignition wires and CCs new....

After the head was reinstalled, the timing marks were checked several times and the engine was hand spun several times with no problems.

After everything was done, the car should and finally back on the road. Unfortunately, the car would not start and we were just looking for why there was no spark. (Have the ignition coil in the suspicion). During maybe the 10th start attempt within two days to do another voltage test the engine suddenly stalled.

Of course we have to remove everything first and determine the cause, that is clear to me. But since it will take a while until we can do that, I would like to have a rough idea of the costs for the "best case", i.e. if "only" the block has to be overhauled and new pistons come in. The reason is that I have the possibility to buy an already overhauled block with new pistons and would like to make a cost comparison.

So if anyone has experience with the cost of such work I look forward to information.

Achso and clean is the cylinder and piston because I have cleaned him very carefully something while the head was down. Since then it has never really run...

Quote from reidiekl

Quote from 944BER

Achso and clean is the cylinder and piston because I have cleaned him very carefully something while the head was down. Since then it has just never really run...

so cylinder and piston at the start attempts also had no lubrication (oil film) more?

I carefully removed the soot from the top of the piston (piston all the way up, put some grease on the gap so no dirt could get in. Some WD-40 on a scotch brite and gently cleaned. Then remove the grease and loosened soot with a fresh cloth). I didn't touch the cylinder bore, of course, but just picked up the coolant that ran in when I removed the head with a cloth. This is not an unusual procedure when overhauling a head, is it? I didn't run gallons of brake cleaner through the cylinder now.... Learn but happy to do so, if that was a wrong procedure!

Quote from Landstreicher

WD 40 dissolves the oil film, was not such a good idea, would have had to give oil on the treads afterwards.

WD 40 is not a lubricant!!!!!

I am aware of that. Maybe I expressed myself badly, I'll try again. I didn't spray wd40 or brake cleaner or anything else in the combustion chamber. I used a small amount on a scotch brite to clean the surface of the piston. How I washed off the entire oil film with it is beyond me unfortunately.